Tips and Techniques for Hourglass and Fashion Fit Corsets

Corsets can enhance your silhouette and add a touch of glamour to any outfit, but they can also be tricky to lace and wear. Whether you're a seasoned corset wearer or just starting out, these tips will help you achieve a comfortable, flattering fit.

Busk Closure (Hourglass Corsets)

• Take note of the lacing pattern when you receive your corset. It will be tied using "rabbit ears" with a long loop in the center for tying in the back.
• Loosen the back ties about five to eight inches to make it easier to put on and take off.
• Start hooking up the front from the center, being careful not to break the busk if you haven't loosened the ties enough.
• Use the "rabbit ears" lacing technique, pulling from the bottom up and then from the top down to tighten the corset.
• Adjust your breasts to avoid flattening them and finish tightening the corset to a comfortable fit.
• Start with a slightly loose corset and gradually tighten over time as it molds to your body. Never lace too tightly, causing discomfort or damage to the corset.
• Always loosen the lacing before taking off the corset and store it by rolling it inside out or hanging it over a hanger.

Zipper Closure (Fashion Fit Corsets)

• Take note of the lacing pattern when you receive your corset. It will be tied using "rabbit ears" with a long loop in the center for tying in the back.
• Loosen the back ties about five to eight inches to make it easier to put on and take off.
• Carefully zip up the front, being mindful of your skin to avoid zipping yourself.
• Use the "rabbit ears" lacing technique, pulling from the bottom up and then from the top down to tighten the corset.
• Adjust your breasts to avoid flattening them and finish tightening the corset to a comfortable fit.
• Start with a slightly loose corset and gradually tighten over time as it molds to your body. Never lace too tightly, causing discomfort or damage to the corset.
• Always loosen the lacing before taking off the corset and store it by rolling it inside out or hanging it over a hanger.

By following these tips, you'll be able to wear your corset with confidence and comfort. Whether you're looking for a classic hourglass silhouette or a fashion-forward fashion fit, these techniques will help you achieve the perfect fit for your body. So, get ready to cinch in your waist and turn heads with your stunning corset style!

The Tex system (most likely derived from the word textile) was created as a new standard of consistent thread measurement and intended to replace all other methods of measurement of threads.  Tenacity is essential in a sewing thread used for corsetry production. Quality is ensured by using fine threads which offer high seam strength yet appear discreet. 

• Generally, an overbust corset overall thread consumption is 95 metres. Depending on the required final quality, alternative thread types may be used but I suggest using Tex 45 or higher for tight-lacing and waist-training purposes.
• Thread size will determine needle size. A general rule is to use a needle whose eye is 40% larger than the diameter of the thread. If you use a #75/11 or #80/12 size needle for 50 weight thread, you should use a needle with a larger eye when sewing with a heavier thread. We recommend a size #90/14 when sewing with a 40 wt. thread and a #100/16 needle when sewing with a 30 wt or 12 wt. thread. If you find your thread to be shredding or skipping stitches, try a new needle and go up one size.

Tex is an accurate measurement and is considered a direct numbering system, meaning the higher the Tex number, the heavier the thread. On the other hand, the weight system, most popular in the U.S., is not a direct numbering system because the larger the number (30 wt., 40 wt., 50. wt., 60 wt.), the finer the thread. That can be confusing when looking at the sticker on the thread bottom. 
The Tex standard uses 1,000 meters of thread per gram as the starting point. This means if 1,000 meters of thread weighs one gram, it is Tex 1. If 1,000 meters of thread weighs 25 grams, it is Tex 25.

• Fine Tex Threads . . . . . . Tex 9 to Tex 20
• Medium Tex Threads . . . Tex 21 to Tex 70 (most commonly used in corsetry is Tex 45). 
• Heavy Tex Threads . . . . . Tex 71 and higher

If you like your corset panels sewn as wrinkle free and fuss-free as possible then you're going to love Heat & Bond Lite. I learned about this product from fellow corsetiere Amber Welch of Lovely Rat's Corsetry a few years ago. It is a game changer when it comes to professional grade corsetry creations.

The Heat & Bond Lite is an iron-on, sewable, double-sided adhesive. It is perfect for fusing satin to coutil or other foundation fabrics. If you plan to make a single layer corset or one with a floating layer the Heat & Bond Lite does all the bonding without any additional weight or stiffness. Also, its easy to remove in case you make a mistake. You can order a bolt of it online or purchase it by the yard at a fabric store. There is also heat n bond ultra that has more adhesive, but the ultra gums up your needles so choose wisely.
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When I begin fabric preparation my first step is to iron out the fashion fabric that will be fused to the coutil with the Heat & Bond Lite. I love the fact that the Heat & Bond Lite has a paper back so I can trace my panels onto the adhesive cut then save myself tons of fabric later on. It does not have to be on grain so you can just cut where ever it is sticky.

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I am pleased to begin sharing some of my favorite resources for corsetry making and more. I want to start with the least expensive items first because corsetry is a hobby that can very quickly become an expensive venture.    I know the prices of corset coutil tends towards $20 per yard for the good stuff and that does not include the price of shipping.  I have personally been able to create my mockups with Carr Textile's fabrics and they fuse wonderfully to the silk charmeuse I have used in the past.  

Carr Textile has some of the loveliest strongest fabrics around. I found them by happenstance at the textile show at the Javits Center sometime in 2017. I made fast friends with my supplier as current trade talks are making it more difficult to source inexpensive cotton.  If you have been following the news about the trade talks between China and the US, then you have likely seen news stories about the increased tariffs on Textile products. Carr Textile is facing rising costs on tariffs, raw materials, chemicals, and transportation which affects a handful of Polyester and Nylon programs that will require a price increase effective July 13, 2019:Our Core programs of Poly/Cotton Twill, Cotton Twills, Canvas, and Poplins are not affected and we are able to pass along a price decrease on the 10oz Duck Program.  THIS was news to my ears. I had to share this with other designers who need to source for production and small orders. 

If you don't need more than a few yards cut and mailed then use this affiliate link and it'll be with you in days.  For all of those who wish to make a larger quantity order over 50 yards you will need to go through the company directly to create an invoice. It is super easy and I had my roll of 50 yards delivered within a week. 

A link to the other colors in Vienna Herringbone 9oz can be found here. 

Thanks for reading and if you wish to have me cover any other corsetry topics please comment below.  
Snug Corsetry Hugs!! 
Jasmine