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Corsetry & Me

A blog about the art of corsetry making and other ruminations

Corsetry Tip #3: Threads Of Choice

9/24/2020

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The Tex system (most likely derived from the word textile) was created as a new standard of consistent thread measurement and intended to replace all other methods of measurement of threads.  Tenacity is essential in a sewing thread used for corsetry production. Quality is ensured by using fine threads which offer high seam strength yet appear discreet. 
  • Generally, an overbust corset overall thread consumption is 95 metres. Depending on the required final quality, alternative thread types may be used but I suggest using Tex 45 or higher for tight-lacing and waist-training purposes.
  • Thread size will determine needle size. A general rule is to use a needle whose eye is 40% larger than the diameter of the thread. If you use a #75/11 or #80/12 size needle for 50 weight thread, you should use a needle with a larger eye when sewing with a heavier thread. We recommend a size #90/14 when sewing with a 40 wt. thread and a #100/16 needle when sewing with a 30 wt or 12 wt. thread. If you find your thread to be shredding or skipping stitches, try a new needle and go up one size.
Tex is an accurate measurement and is considered a direct numbering system, meaning the higher the Tex number, the heavier the thread. On the other hand, the weight system, most popular in the U.S., is not a direct numbering system because the larger the number (30 wt., 40 wt., 50. wt., 60 wt.), the finer the thread. That can be confusing when looking at the sticker on the thread bottom. 
The Tex standard uses 1,000 meters of thread per gram as the starting point. This means if 1,000 meters of thread weighs one gram, it is Tex 1. If 1,000 meters of thread weighs 25 grams, it is Tex 25.
  • Fine Tex Threads . . . . . . Tex 9 to Tex 20
  • Medium Tex Threads . . . Tex 21 to Tex 70 (most commonly used in corsetry is Tex 45). 
  • Heavy Tex Threads . . . . . Tex 71 and higher
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Corsetry Tips

10/1/2019

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I am pleased to begin sharing some of my favorite resources for corsetry making and more. I want to start with the least expensive items first because corsetry is a hobby that can very quickly become an expensive venture.    I know the prices of corset coutil tends towards $20 per yard for the good stuff and that does not include the price of shipping.  I have personally been able to create my mockups with Carr Textile's fabrics and they fuse wonderfully to the silk charmeuse I have used in the past.  

Carr Textile has some of the loveliest strongest fabrics around. I found them by happenstance at the textile show at the Javits Center sometime in 2017. I made fast friends with my supplier as current trade talks are making it more difficult to source inexpensive cotton.  If you have been following the news about the trade talks between China and the US, then you have likely seen news stories about the increased tariffs on Textile products. Carr Textile is facing rising costs on tariffs, raw materials, chemicals, and transportation which affects a handful of Polyester and Nylon programs that will require a price increase effective July 13, 2019:Our Core programs of Poly/Cotton Twill, Cotton Twills, Canvas, and Poplins are not affected and we are able to pass along a price decrease on the 10oz Duck Program.  THIS was news to my ears. I had to share this with other designers who need to source for production and small orders. 

If you don't need more than a few yards cut and mailed then use this affiliate link and it'll be with you in days.  For all of those who wish to make a larger quantity order over 50 yards you will need to go through the company directly to create an invoice. It is super easy and I had my roll of 50 yards delivered within a week. 

A link to the other colors in Vienna Herringbone 9oz can be found here. 

Carr Textile has the best herringbone cotton!!! 

Thanks for reading and if you wish to have me cover any other corsetry topics please comment below.  
Snug Corsetry Hugs!! 
Jasmine 

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    Jasmine Ines

    Hello! I'm a self-taught seamstress since 2009, I have a vast amount of industry experience and a knack for teaching my skills to noobies. Ask me any corsetry related questions. I am happy to help guide you in your corsetry making adventures. 

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