Corsetry Tip #3: Threads Of Choice

The Tex system (most likely derived from the word textile) was created as a new standard of consistent thread measurement and intended to replace all other methods of measurement of threads.  Tenacity is essential in a sewing thread used for corsetry production. Quality is ensured by using fine threads which offer high seam strength yet appear discreet. 

• Generally, an overbust corset overall thread consumption is 95 metres. Depending on the required final quality, alternative thread types may be used but I suggest using Tex 45 or higher for tight-lacing and waist-training purposes.
• Thread size will determine needle size. A general rule is to use a needle whose eye is 40% larger than the diameter of the thread. If you use a #75/11 or #80/12 size needle for 50 weight thread, you should use a needle with a larger eye when sewing with a heavier thread. We recommend a size #90/14 when sewing with a 40 wt. thread and a #100/16 needle when sewing with a 30 wt or 12 wt. thread. If you find your thread to be shredding or skipping stitches, try a new needle and go up one size.

Tex is an accurate measurement and is considered a direct numbering system, meaning the higher the Tex number, the heavier the thread. On the other hand, the weight system, most popular in the U.S., is not a direct numbering system because the larger the number (30 wt., 40 wt., 50. wt., 60 wt.), the finer the thread. That can be confusing when looking at the sticker on the thread bottom. 
The Tex standard uses 1,000 meters of thread per gram as the starting point. This means if 1,000 meters of thread weighs one gram, it is Tex 1. If 1,000 meters of thread weighs 25 grams, it is Tex 25.

• Fine Tex Threads . . . . . . Tex 9 to Tex 20
• Medium Tex Threads . . . Tex 21 to Tex 70 (most commonly used in corsetry is Tex 45). 
• Heavy Tex Threads . . . . . Tex 71 and higher